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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So just performed my first DIY oil change on Little Blue. It was very easy! I only needed a jack, a philips screw driver, oil catch pan, and an 8mm hex key (oil and oil filter too, ofcourse!)
First I jacked the passenger side of the car up. I used the screw driver to remove the little trap door on the engine splash shield to gain access to the oil filter and oil pan drain plug. Next, I positioned the oil catch pan and removed old filter with my hand (there was plenty of room to get my hand up and around it) Then I removed the drain plug with the hex key.
To finish I slapped on a new filter, replaced drain plug and filled her back up with 4.4 quarts premium synthetic oil.
Thought I'd post some pics for reference.

http://tinypic.com/a/fkog3b/3
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For my first oil change I used a Mobil 1 Extended Performance M1-108A.
I used Royal Purple Extended Life filter 10-2876 for the most recent oil change.
 

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So just performed my first DIY oil change on Little Blue. It was very easy! I only needed a jack, a philips screw driver, oil catch pan, and an 8mm hex key (oil and oil filter too, ofcourse!)
First I jacked the passenger side of the car up. I used the screw driver to remove the little trap door on the engine splash shield to gain access to the oil filter and oil pan drain plug. Next, I positioned the oil catch pan and removed old filter with my hand (there was plenty of room to get my hand up and around it) Then I removed the drain plug with the hex key.
To finish I slapped on a new filter, replaced drain plug and filled her back up with 4.4 quarts premium synthetic oil.
Thought I'd post some pics for reference

How's the car been? reliable? I am getting quotes now from local dealers...I may be getting one in the Spring. In a manual transmission. I like the car and it seems trouble free.
 

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I see the owner's manual recommends oil changes at 7500 miles. I know that Toyota has been recommending 10,000 miles on their other models using synthetic oil. I also have a Toyota Camry, and that is their recommendation. So since this our iA models are really a Mazda should it be 7500 or 10,000 miles? Maybe I should ask the Toyota / Scion dealership.
 

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You didn't happen to notice a nice front jacking point did you? There is a jack adapter in the trunk, and I can see where it goes in the rear end. But I need to change my rotors and pads and would like to jack from the front rather than by the pinch weld / frame rails.
 

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You didn't happen to notice a nice front jacking point did you? There is a jack adapter in the trunk, and I can see where it goes in the rear end. But I need to change my rotors and pads and would like to jack from the front rather than by the pinch weld / frame rails.
I agree with you about lifting vehicle from the front end tackling both rotors at the same time without having to jack each side separately, however I'd recommend you being careful about lifting a FWD vehicle from the front end, because even with the parking brake and the transmission in park (or in gear if you cave a manual). The car can roll back easily specially if you lift it at a high angle. (I used to work at a shop and I've seen this happen before.

When you have a RWD vehicle and you put the parking brake and the vehicle in Park, its almost impossible that it will roll if you lift the front.

My suggestion to you is to jack each side as you go (I know it's more work and it takes longer, but it's a lot safer).

just my 2 cents.
 

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You didn't happen to notice a nice front jacking point did you? There is a jack adapter in the trunk, and I can see where it goes in the rear end. But I need to change my rotors and pads and would like to jack from the front rather than by the pinch weld / frame rails.
I agree with you about lifting vehicle from the front end tackling both rotors at the same time without having to jack each side separately, however I'd recommend you being careful about lifting a FWD vehicle from the front end, because even with the parking brake and the transmission in park (or in gear if you cave a manual). The car can roll back easily specially if you lift it at a high angle. (I used to work at a shop and I've seen this happen before.

When you have a RWD vehicle and you put the parking brake and the vehicle in Park, its almost impossible that it will roll if you lift the front.

My suggestion to you is to jack each side as you go (I know it's more work and it takes longer, but it's a lot safer).

just my 2 cents.
Agreed, I always use chocks since my FR-S I lift from the rear time to time for brake changes (track / auto x) and it being a manual RWD there’s nothing but the chocks to stop the front from rolling. I’ve just never liking lifting a car from one side and avoid it at all costs.
 

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Thanks for your DIY oil change post. Things have changed a bit for the 2019 model. It uses a standard 17mm drain plug bolt rather than the 8mm plug on previous models. Otherwise, all is the same. An easy job!
 

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Anyone have issues with oil drain plug leaking..

Replaced oil drain plug washer with

OEM Oil Drain Plug Washer Gaskets For Mazda Part# 9956-41-400 (amazon)
(seems identical as OEM)
 

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Anyone have issues with oil drain plug leaking..

Replaced oil drain plug washer with

OEM Oil Drain Plug Washer Gaskets For Mazda Part# 9956-41-400 (amazon)
(seems identical as OEM)
Yes, I have. The first oil change was done by Toyota dealer covered by Toyota's 2-year maintenance program. 2.5 quarts of oil leaked out during the road trip from San Jose to LA! Brought back to the Toyota dealer afterwards the dealer claimed the drain plug aluminum washer is "cracked" and the oil is leaking out from there!
 
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